NZ Woollen Mills at Full Capacity as Wartime Demand Surges — A Defence Stores Perspective

Leave a comment

This post is based on an article originally published in the NZ Herald’s “Pastures Past” column by Kem Ormond, drawing on newspaper sources from 1915 and 1922. The original article can be read here: NZ Herald – Pastures Past: NZ woollen mills at full capacity as wartime demand surges.

New Zealand’s woollen mills reached their operational peak during the First and Second World Wars, running at full capacity to meet the demands of a nation at war. Kem Ormond’s recent “Pastures Past” column in the NZ Herald draws on contemporary newspaper reports from 1915 and 1922 to revisit that era, noting that New Zealand’s first commercial weaving enterprise was established in Brook Valley, Nelson, in 1845, with the industry growing steadily alongside the expansion of sheep farming across the country. By the time war came in 1914, the mills were a well-established feature of New Zealand’s manufacturing landscape,  and the military had first call on everything they could produce.

A 1915 newspaper report captures the situation clearly. A Sydney firm had approached New Zealand’s mills with very large orders for knitted woollens. The response from mill management was straightforward: “Present activity in the woollen industry prohibits the undertaking of any outside orders.”

The mills, including those at Onehunga and the Bruce Woollen Manufacturing Company, were already working at the full capacity of the available labour supply. Australian buyers would have to look elsewhere. New Zealand’s soldiers came first.

What the NZ Herald article does not explore, however, is the institutional machinery that connected those busy looms to the men who wore the cloth. That story belongs to the Defence Stores Department, a small, civilian-staffed organisation that has remained largely absent from the New Zealand military historical narrative, despite playing a decisive role in making the mobilisation of 1914 possible.

The Defence Stores Department and the Woollen Trade

The relationship between the Defence Stores and New Zealand’s manufacturing industry was not born of wartime necessity alone. It had been built deliberately and incrementally over several decades. As early as the 1870s and 1880s, the Defence Stores Department was purchasing bolts of cloth in standardised colours so that volunteer units could have uniforms manufactured to a consistent specification, rather than importing finished garments from England.

By the time of the South African War at the turn of the century, this approach had evolved into a mature system of competitive tendering. The Department advertised in newspapers across the country, inviting local manufacturers to supply everything from blankets and shirts to boots and saddlery. The system worked well enough that New Zealand’s contingents were repeatedly praised as the best-dressed and best-equipped colonial troops in the South African theatre, a distinction attributed directly to the leadership of Defence Storekeeper Major James O’Sullivan and his staff.

As the New Zealand Times recorded in 1901: “Our men were the ‘best dressed and equipped’ of all the colonial troops in the field.” [1]

Clothing for a New Zealand Contingent being distributed at the Defence Stores, Wellington. Auckland Libraries Heritage Images Collection

Following South Africa, the Defence Stores Department continued to deepen its ties with New Zealand’s manufacturing sector. Mobilisation stores were established in Wellington, Christchurch, Auckland and Dunedin, with tenders sought from local industry for the manufacture and supply of uniforms and boots. The relationship between the Department and manufacturers such as the woollen mills was, by 1914, well-tested and capable of scaling quickly to meet a sudden surge in demand.

August 1914: The Supply Chain Under Pressure

When New Zealand’s parliament announced on 7 August 1914 that an expeditionary force of 7,000 to 8,000 men was to be mobilised, the Defence Stores Department had days, not months, to clothe and equip them. The mobilisation camps at Alexandra Park in Auckland, Addington Park in Christchurch, Tahuna Park in Dunedin, and Trentham in Wellington were established almost immediately, with District Storekeepers responsible for ensuring that clothing and equipment reached recruits as they arrived.

The scale of the supply challenge was considerable. The History of the Canterbury Regiment recorded how “equipment such as uniforms, boots, blankets, rifles, and Mill’s web arrived in small lots, and was issued immediately.” [2] Men arrived at camps as civilians and departed as soldiers, the transformation made possible in large part by the supply chain the Defence Stores had spent years constructing.

Between 5 August 1914 and 31 March 1915, the Defence Stores Department received fifty-three different categories of goods, totalling more than half a million individual line items — from eighty-four different suppliers.[3] [3] The woollen mills, now running at full capacity and unable to accept orders from Australian buyers, were firmly within that network.

Demand continued to grow as the war lengthened. In July 1915, the 7th Wellington West Coast Regiment alone submitted a requisition for clothing that included:

  • 1,043 Jackets: Khaki, Woollen
  • 1,043 Trousers: Khaki, Woollen
  • 1,043 Greatcoats: dismounted
  • 1,043 Cap, Forage
  • 1,043 Caps, Felt [4]

Multiply that requisition across seventeen infantry regiments, twelve mounted rifle regiments, and the artillery, engineer, medical and Army Service Corps units all drawing on the Defence Stores simultaneously, and the demand placed on New Zealand’s woollen mills becomes vivid. The press reports Ormond cites, of mills turning away outside orders and Sydney buyers being politely refused, reflect not simply commercial busyness, but the direct pressure of the Defence Stores’ supply programme.

An Industry’s Peak and Subsequent Decline

The NZ Herald article notes that after their wartime peak, New Zealand’s woollen mills faced a long, difficult adjustment. Growing competition from synthetic fibres and cheaper imported materials gradually eroded the large-scale apparel production that had defined the industry at its height. Today, as Ormond observes, the industry has evolved toward specialised niche manufacturing and premium artisan yarns, a far cry from the loom-thumping urgency of 1915.

The Defence Stores Department, too, was eventually superseded. Gazetted on 1 February 1917, the New Zealand Army Ordnance Corps assumed the responsibilities of the civilian Defence Stores, with the militarisation of logistics services reflecting lessons drawn from the war and the practices of Australia and Canada. The Department that had clothed the NZEF gave way to a uniformed corps better suited to the demands of modern military logistics.

Conclusion

Kem Ormond’s “Pastures Past” column offers a valuable window into an industrial world that has largely disappeared, the sound of New Zealand’s woollen mills at full stretch, producing the cloth that kept the country’s soldiers dressed and equipped for war. That story, however, is incomplete without an understanding of the institutional bridge between mill and battlefield: the Defence Stores Department, whose decades of careful relationship-building with New Zealand’s manufacturing sector made it possible to mobilise at speed in 1914.

Military historians have largely focused on commanders, campaigns and the combat experience of the New Zealand soldier. The contribution of the men and women who kept the supply chain functioning, from the District Storekeepers working through the night to issue uniforms to incoming drafts, to the civilian clerks managing ledgers of half a million line items, remains underappreciated. The woollen mills could not have served the army without someone to place the orders, inspect the goods, and ensure delivery to the right camp at the right time. That was the unappreciated duty of the Defence Stores Department.

Related reading on this site:

Notes

[1] “Defence Staff Efficiency,” New Zealand Times, Volume LXXI, Issue 4409, 16 July 1901. https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZTIM19010716.2.3.

[2] O. E. Burton, The Auckland Regiment (Whitcombe and Tombs, 1922), 2; and the History of the Canterbury Regiment, as cited in McKie, R. (2022). Unappreciated Duty. Massey University, p. 82

[3] Defence Storekeeper, “Defence Store Commission (Commission of Inquiry re Defence Stores), July 1915 – September 1915,” as cited in McKie (2022), p. 91.

[4] Defence Storekeeper, “Defence Store Commission (Commission of Inquiry re Defence Stores), July 1915 – September 1915,” Form G12 – Territorials: Requisition for Clothing, 7th Wellington West Coast Regiment, July 1915, as cited in McKie (2022), p. 92.

Leave a Reply