In 1985, the New Zealand Army embarked on the “Dress for the 90s” initiative, a comprehensive effort to modernise and streamline its uniform policy. This initiative aimed to address inefficiencies and inconsistencies in the Army’s clothing system, which had developed without a coherent long-term vision since the Second World War. Despite incremental updates, the Army’s uniform inventory had become a patchwork of outdated items, including 1940s-era garments, Jungle Greens introduced in 1958 (with minor updates in the 1960s), and the Disruptive Pattern Material (DPM) uniforms introduced in 1975 for temperate climates.
The Need for Modernisation
The impetus for change was underscored by an Army Clothing Survey conducted in 1984. The survey revealed widespread dissatisfaction among personnel with the variety, practicality, and utility of the uniforms. Common concerns included:
- Overcomplexity: A wide array of uniform types resulted in inefficiency.
- Operational Mismatches: Uniforms often lacked adaptability to diverse operational environments.
- Aging Designs: Many garments were outdated and no longer met modern standards for durability, comfort, or appearance.
Feedback from soldiers highlighted a need to rationalise the uniform range, focusing on designs that were practical, complementary, and suited to operational requirements.
The “Dress for the 90s” Proposals
Drawing on the feedback from personnel and ongoing clothing projects, the “Dress for the 90s” paper outlined a roadmap for modernising New Zealand Army uniforms. The proposals prioritised functionality, financial efficiency, and alignment with the Army’s evolving operational needs. Key recommendations included:
Combat Clothing
Combat clothing was a central focus, with the aim of creating a cohesive and functional wardrobe for field use. Recommendations included:
- DPM Wet Weather Gore-Tex Jackets and Over-Trousers: Designed to improve protection in temperate and wet climates.
- DPM “Sandri” Smock: Proposed as a replacement for the existing DPM smock, enhancing functionality and comfort.
- DPM Combat Jersey: A modern replacement for the green training jersey.
- Lightweight Woollen Shirt: For use in temperate climates, offering improved comfort and adaptability.
- DPM Shirt and Trousers for Hot Climates: Tailored for wear in tropical and arid environments.
Barrack Dress
The proposals aimed to extend the existing concepts of service dress to improve practicality and aesthetic appeal:
- Bomber-Style Jacket: Proposed as a walking-out dress, offering a contemporary and functional option.
- Summer Service Dress Updates: Replacement of the dark green summer “Dacron” uniforms with a short-sleeved version of the existing service dress shirt, compatible with the training jersey for cooler climates.
Ceremonial and Mess Dress
Minimal changes were proposed for ceremonial and mess dress, with the intention to preserve traditional designs while maintaining quality standards.
Physical Training (PT) Dress
Recognising the importance of physical training in Army culture, a redesign was suggested to modernise PT uniforms, enhancing both functionality and the Army’s professional image.
Issuing Procedures and Accounting System
The initiative also proposed significant changes to the clothing issuance and accounting system to improve efficiency and cost-effectiveness:
- Barrack, Service, and Mess Dress: These uniforms were to remain on a permanent issue system, supported by Uniform Upkeep Allowances (UUA).
- Combat Clothing: Issued on a long-term loan basis with a free exchange system to account for wear and operational needs. This approach aimed to eliminate the UUA for combat clothing, reducing administrative and financial overheads.
- Comprehensive Accounting System: The School of Army Administration was tasked with developing a robust system for tracking issued and loaned items, ensuring accountability and minimising losses.
Cost Implications
A detailed financial analysis of the initiative projected significant savings, both in terms of initial implementation and long-term operational costs. Key estimates included:
- Total Savings: NZD 77,095 in 1985 (equivalent to NZD 189,800 in 2024).
- Annual Savings: NZD 566,542 in 1985 (equivalent to NZD 1,394,000 in 2024).
The cost savings were expected to accumulate progressively, as the changeover was designed to be self-funding.
Supplementary Notes and Recommendations
The paper also provided supplementary recommendations to enhance the uniform system further:
- Creation of a combined overcoat/raincoat, modelled on the British Macintosh.
- Addition of identifiable Army-issue PT gear, such as a sweatshirt or tracksuit top.
The recommendations aimed to categorise Army uniforms into five clear types:
- Ceremonial Dress
- Barrack Dress
- Combat Dress
- Mess Dress
- PT Dress
Implementation and Outcomes
While the “Dress for the 90s” proposals were not immediately adopted in full, several key items were introduced incrementally over the following years:
- DPM Wet Weather Jackets and Over-Trousers: Introduced in 1985, these were manufactured using “Entrant” fabric instead of Gore-Tex for cost efficiency. Designs were subsequently refined.
- DPM Sandri Smock: Rolled out in 1985, this item received mixed feedback and was eventually replaced by an updated DPM smock in the mid-1990s.
- Woollen Shirts: Issued in 1985 but faced divisive reception, leading to their withdrawal in favour of the DPM shirt in the early 1990s.
- DPM Shirt: Trialled in 1985, this garment was gradually adopted and became standard by 1988.
- DPM Combat Jersey: Introduced on a trial basis but not adopted for general use.
- Barrack Dress: Significant updates were delayed until the mid-1990s, when the outdated Dacron uniforms were replaced by the Service Dress for All Ranks (SDAR).
Conclusion
The “Dress for the 90s” initiative represented a landmark effort to rationalise and modernise New Zealand Army uniforms. While the full scope of the proposals was not immediately implemented, the initiative established a clear direction for future updates. The incremental introduction of key items laid the groundwork for a more cohesive, functional, and cost-efficient uniform system, ensuring that the New Zealand Army’s clothing policy remained aligned with its operational and professional requirements.[1]
Notes
[1] “Conferences – Policy and General – NZ Army Dress Committee 1985-87,” Archives New Zealand No R17311898 (1984).
