Feeding the Force: A History of NZ Army Field Cooking Systems

Field cooking equipment plays a vital role in maintaining the health and morale of troops in the field, directly impacting operational effectiveness. This article focuses on the major pieces of field cooking equipment the New Zealand military used from World War II to the present, offering a historical overview of their development, use, and eventual replacement. It intentionally excludes ancillary equipment such as refrigerators, hotboxes, water heaters and section cooking equipment to concentrate on the core cooking systems essential for food preparation in field conditions.

From introducing the No. 1 Burner during the mobilisation for World War II to adopting modern systems like the SERT PFC 500, each innovation reflects the evolving requirements of military field operations. This article highlights the importance of reliable and efficient food preparation and underscores the logistical ingenuity required to sustain forces in diverse and often challenging environments.

Through this exploration, we gain a deeper appreciation for the critical role field cooking solutions play in ensuring that troops remain well-fed and ready to meet the demands of military service.

The No 1 Burner

As New Zealand mobilised in September 1939, one of the many equipment deficiencies identified was the lack of portable cookers for preparing meals in the field. The coming war was anticipated to be one of mobility, rendering traditional cooking methods unsuitable. In response, the Army approached the New Zealand Ministry of Supply to procure 72 portable cookers for the First Echelon, with the possibility of an additional two for the Second Echelon. Samples were made available from existing Army stocks to facilitate the manufacture of the portable cookers.[1]

The portable cooker required by the Army was the No. 1 Hydra Burner, a petrol-burning device developed and patented by Lewis Motley in the 1920s. After 12 years of trials and refinement with the British Army, it was officially adopted as the No. 1 Hydra Burner, becoming the primary cooking and heating device for the British Army by 1939. The burner was designed to cook food in various ways using 6-gallon pots and frying pans, either by using a trench dug in the ground or a purpose-built stand on hard surfaces. The No. 1 Hydra Burner could also be used with Soyer or Fowler field stoves, providing flexibility in field cooking arrangements.

With samples of the No. 1 Burner available from New Zealand Army stocks, tenders were invited to supply 72 burner units and their associated parts and 432 hot boxes, dishes, fry pans, and stands.

Tendering Process and Contracts

The tendering process involved several prominent New Zealand engineering firms, such as:

  • National Electrical & Engineering Co. Ltd., Wellington
  • Precision Engineering Co. Ltd., Wellington
  • Hardleys Ltd., Auckland
  • D. Henry & Co. Ltd., Auckland
  • Alex Harvey and Sons, Auckland

Ultimately, the contract for the burners and associated components was awarded to D. Henry & Co. Ltd., while Hardleys Ltd. took responsibility for the hot boxes and dishes. Delivery commenced in late 1939, and the equipment was completed in early 1940.

The burner unit manufactured by D. Henry & Co. featured a notable redesign from the original Hydra No. 1 Burner. It incorporated an air pump into the fuel vessel and modified the filling cap with a coil around the orifice. The updated design became the No. 1 Burner (New Pattern).

Expansion of Use

By July 1940, plans were underway to equip the Territorial Force fully, necessitating the procurement of an additional 260 No. 1 Burner units. Accessories for field cooking, such as 6-gallon cooking containers, frying pans, and baffle plates, were also ordered in large quantities. To ensure distributed cooking capability down to the section level, 396 Portable Cookers No. 2 and 207 Portable Cookers No. 3 were planned to be added to the inventory.

The distribution of equipment to the Ordnance Depots at Trentham, Ngāruawāhia, and Burnham ensured that units across the country were adequately supplied. Each depot received a portion of the 260 additional burners and 96 spare units and their respective accessories.

Operational Challenges and Adaptations

The No. 1 Burner (New Pattern) was not without its challenges. Upon entering service, numerous faults were reported, including:

  • Difficulty maintaining pressure
  • Issues with the nozzle
  • Fuel leakage from the air pump

Many problems were exacerbated by using outdated instruction manuals, which referenced the original Hydra No. 1 Burner rather than the updated version. Ordnance Workshops conducted inspections to address these issues, and the manufacturer took remedial actions. Despite these efforts, the burner remained a critical component of the Army’s field cooking solutions throughout the war.

Cooks preparing Christmas dinner in the NZ Division area in Italy, World War II – Photograph taken by George Kaye. New Zealand. Department of Internal Affairs. War History Branch Ref: DA-04932-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/23073864

Post-War Usage and Decline

Following World War II, the No. 1 Burner remained in service, a testament to its robust design and utility. However, technological advancements and the introduction of lighter, more efficient equipment gradually led to its decline. In 1964, the adoption of M37 cooking cabinets began to replace the No. 1 Burner in many roles. By 1973, the burner was no longer listed as an item of supply in New Zealand Army scaling documents.[2]

Wiles Cookers

Early in World War II, the Australians developed and introduced the Wiles Senior and Junior Mobile Steam Cookers into their military service. Over 500 Junior Cookers were used by the Australian forces, earning positive feedback from American forces, who also adopted several units.[3]

In 1943, the New Zealand Commissioner of Supply acquired photos and blueprints of the Wiles Cookers and General Motors in Petone indicated they had the expertise and capacity to manufacture the cookers locally if the New Zealand Army placed an order. However, as the Army already had sufficient stocks of the No. 1 Burner, they decided against adopting the new cookers. Despite this, the Royal New Zealand Air Force (RNZAF) showed some interest. In 1942, the RNZAF received a Wiles Senior Field Kitchen (trailer) and a mobile cookhouse, which was later transferred to the Army.[4]

Trailer [‘Wiles Senior’ Army Field Kitchen trailer]. The Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT).

By 1948, the New Zealand Army still lacked a mobile field cooker and conducted extensive trials of a Wiles Cooker at Trentham. The trials demonstrated that the Wiles Cooker was well-suited to New Zealand’s field conditions. However, the United Kingdom was concurrently testing mobile field cookers, and no immediate action was taken to purchase the Wiles Cooker, as New Zealand hoped to adopt a standard cooker based on the British pattern.

In 1951, the UK trials concluded, selecting a two-wheeled trailer-mounted steam cooker to meet British requirements. However, several factors made it unlikely that New Zealand would obtain these British-pattern cookers for several years. Consequently, the idea of purchasing the Wiles Cooker from Australia was revisited.

Re-evaluation of the Wiles Cooker revealed that it met UK specifications and offered several advantages:

  • Fuel Efficiency: The cooker uses light fuel, using only 25% of the standard fuel issue. Alternative fuels like scrub, deadwood, or dry rubbish are available. The cooker could run on wood, coal, or oil.
  • High Cooking Pressure: Reduced cooking times significantly.
  • Nutritional Benefits: High-pressure steaming preserved many vitamins in vegetables.
  • Versatility: Three-course meals could be prepared, cooked, and served with minimal discomfort or inconvenience.
  • Multiple Cooking Methods: The cooker supported roasting, steaming, and frying.
  • Mobility: Meals could be prepared while the cooker was in transit.
  • Hot Water Supply: A continuous flow of hot water was available for washing up.

Among the models available, the Junior Mobile Trailer Cooker was considered the most suitable for training cooks, supporting sub-unit camps and weekend bivouacs, serving as a reserve for national emergencies, and equipping mobilisation efforts.[5]

In 1951, the Wiles Junior Cooker was priced at £747 Australian (approximately NZD 44,130.80 in 2024). In July of that year, the New Zealand Cabinet approved an expenditure of £10,520 NZ Pounds (approximately NZD 696,003.20 in 2024) to purchase 16 Wiles Junior Cookers.[6]

Wiles Junior mobile kitchen. New Zealand Military Vehicle Club Inc

Entering service in 1952, the New Zealand Army’s experience with the Wiles Cooker closely mirrored the challenges faced by the Australian Army. By the late 1970s, the Wiles Cooker had become obsolescent and was no longer in production. Several key issues highlight its unsuitability for continued use:

  • Deterioration and Serviceability – The Wiles Cookers had progressively been withdrawn from service as repair costs now exceed the One-Time Repair Limit (OTRL).
  • Fuel Challenges – The cooker relied on solid fuel, which was increasingly impractical. Procuring solid fuel was difficult and required significant time and labour for preparation. Liquid or gaseous fuels were then considered far more suitable due to their efficiency, availability, and ease of use.
  • Maintenance and Support – The boilers required regular inspection and testing by RNZEME. Suitable repair parts and major components were no longer available, making maintenance increasingly challenging and costly.
  • Operational Deficiencies—The Wiles Cooker used rubber hoses to channel cooking steam and hot water, imparting an unpleasant flavour to food and beverages. These inefficiencies compromise food quality, negatively impacting soldier morale in field conditions.
  • Obsolescence and Reliability – The New Zealand equipment dated back to the 1950s based on a World War II design which had surpassed its economic life expectancy, with the Wiles Cooker unreliable and unable to meet the operational demands of the modern Army.[7]
Army cooks use a Wiles Junior Mobil Cooker during an exercise near Oxford in Canterbury (NZ) in 1959. National Army Museum (NZ) Ref . 1993,1912 (5691)

The Wiles Cooker was quietly withdrawn from New Zealand Army service in the late 1970s as they were an obsolete, costly to maintain, and operationally inefficient equipment. The less mobile M-1937 and M-1959 Field Stoves provided field cooking functionality until a new mobile trailer was introduced into NZ Army service in 1985.

M-1937 and M-1959 Field Ranges

The Cooker, Field Range M-1937(M37), is a United States equipment introduced during World War II as a robust and versatile field cooking system designed to support forces in diverse and challenging environments. Compact, durable, and fuelled by a gasoline burner, the M37 can prepare meals for up to 75 personnel, depending on the menu. Its design emphasises portability and adaptability, allowing it to be used for baking, boiling, and frying with the appropriate accessories. Constructed from corrosion-resistant materials, it was built to endure the harsh conditions of field operations.

M-1937 field range early model
In its original form the M-1937 field range consisted of one or more self-contained cabinets, constructed of aluminum and stainless steel, each of which contained a roast or bake pan with griddle cover and a steel cradle for supporting a large boiler and a fire unit. WW2 Field Kitchen

In New Zealand, the M37 was likely first acquired by the RNZAF and the 3rd New Zealand Division from United States Forces stocks, particularly for operations in the Pacific Theatre, where reliable hot meals were essential. Photographic evidence indicates that New Zealand forces used the M37 as early as 1956, highlighting its durability and effectiveness. Its formal adoption by the New Zealand Army likely occurred in the early 1960s as part of broader post-war efforts to standardise and modernise military equipment. The M37’s reliability in providing hot meals under challenging conditions made it an invaluable asset for field operations.

Boy Entrants School publicity. View of the camp kitchen “cook house” at the Rainbow Valley camp.

By 1982, the New Zealand Army introduced the Cooker, Field Range M-1959 (M59), as an upgraded successor to the M37. While retaining many of the original M37 components, the M59 incorporated several improvements.  The M59’s design improvements increased heat output and reduced cooking times. Adding improved safety features and compatibility with existing M37 parts eased its integration into New Zealand Army operations.

Despite the introduction of the M59, the M37 remained in service, often used alongside its successor. Both systems have continued to be a mainstay of field catering operations, supported by modern enhancements such as Gas Burner Units (GBUs) and Multi-Burner Units (MBUs). In 2024, the New Zealand Army received additional cabinets from Australia, further extending the operational lifespan of these systems. However, a growing challenge is the scarcity of replacement parts, including the original pots, pans, and utensils, which are no longer manufactured. This limits the ability to sustain these cooking systems in the long term, providing a challenge to the NZ Army to maintain proven systems with the need for investment in modern, sustainable field catering solutions.

Kärcher Field Kitchen

In 1985, the New Zealand Army introduced 28 Kärcher Tactical Field Kitchen 250 (TFK 250) units into service. Originally developed in 1984 for the German Armed Forces, the TFK 250 was adopted the following year. This highly mobile field kitchen can efficiently prepare meals for up to 250 personnel in demanding environments. Its modular cooking system includes multiple chambers, allowing a variety of dishes to be prepared simultaneously. Designed for versatility, the TFK 250 can operate using gas, diesel, or solid fuel, making it adaptable to available resources. Mounted on a robust trailer with off-road capability, it is well-suited for deployment in remote or rugged terrains. The unit’s energy-efficient heating system ensures reduced fuel consumption and rapid meal preparation, while its stainless steel surfaces simplify cleaning and sanitation. Quick to set up and dismantle, the TFK 250 meets the dynamic demands of operational environments with ergonomic controls for ease of use. Widely used by over 50 countries, humanitarian organisations and disaster response teams, the TFK 250 is renowned for its reliability, adaptability, and ability to function in extreme conditions. By the time production ceased in 2020, Kärcher had manufactured 3,000 of these mobile catering systems at their plant in Obersontheim, Germany.[8]

From 1985, the TFK250 became the cornerstone of NZDF field catering support. Supplemented by the M37/59 Field Ranges, it provided hot meals to New Zealand servicemen and women both at home and on operations around the world. Originally planned with a Life of Type (LOT) of 33 years set to expire in 2018, the TFK250’s LOT was extended by an additional seven years to 2025, bringing its total service life to an impressive 40 years.

Karcher Kitchens supporting Waitangi commemorations. 2nd Combat Service Support Battalion

SERT PFC 500

To replace the TFK250 and reintroduce laundry, shower, and ablution capabilities, the NZDF launched the Field Operational Hygiene and Catering System (FOHCS) project. This force modernisation initiative encompassed catering, shower, ablution, and laundry platforms. A request for proposals was issued on 27 March 2019, with the submission period closing on 12 May 2019, seeking a range of equipment to meet these objectives.[9]

The contract for the FOHCS requirement was awarded to Australian Defence Contractors, Nowra-based Global Defence Systems (GDS), with deliveries scheduled for completion by 2022. The platforms delivered by GDS were developed in collaboration with the French manufacturer SERT, a leader in deployable life support solutions for over 25 years. To ensure the NZDF maintained a robust sovereign sustainment capability throughout the equipment’s lifecycle, some components were manufactured in New Zealand, with engineering support services also available locally.[10]

The catering portion of the solution provided by GDS included ten SERT PFC 500 transportable kitchen platforms.[11]  The PFC 500 is installed on a modular platform designed to fit various logistic configurations, such as a trailer, two platforms in a 20’ dry ISO container, or on a flat rack.

SERT PFC 500 transportable kitchen platforms (GDS)

Each PFC 500 unit has four stainless steel gastronorm cooking modules: the MultiSert multifunction kettle, the Big CombiSert combined oven, and the DuoSert fan-assisted oven with a hot plate on top. These units are highly energy-efficient, featuring the latest-generation components and SERT’s advanced high-efficiency burners, resulting in low electric power consumption. Additionally, the units are powered by a low-power generator, ensuring full autonomy in the field.

The expandable platform provides users with a sheltered work area measuring 14 m², elevated 40 cm above the ground for ease of use and protection.[12]

Despite nearly 70 years of experience demonstrating the utility of trailer-mounted field kitchens—for training cooks, supporting sub-unit camps and weekend bivouacs, aiding national emergencies such as earthquake recovery and flood relief, and supporting significant national events—the PFC 500 is not trailer-mounted. Instead, it is mounted on a platform requiring specialised material handling equipment (MHE) and vehicles for transport, which limits its utility. Consequently, despite being delivered in 2022, the PFC 500 has not yet been utilised for any significant events, such as disaster response, national hui and tangis. Meanwhile, the TFJ205 and M37/59 have continued to serve effectively, raising questions about the suitability of modern defence procurement decisions.

Conclusion

Field cooking equipment has been a cornerstone of New Zealand military logistics, ensuring that troops are well-fed and operationally effective in a variety of challenging conditions. From the No. 1 Burner’s ingenuity during World War II to the versatile M37/59 and the robust TFK 250, each system has contributed significantly to maintaining the health and morale of soldiers in the field. However, the NZDF’s latest procurement—the SERT PFC 500—has raised concerns about the organisation’s ability to learn from its own history and past successes.

The No. 1 Burner demonstrated the importance of adaptability, while the M37/59 and TFK 250 further underscored the value of functionality, flexibility, and mobility in field cooking systems. These systems not only meet operational requirements but also adapted to evolving military and humanitarian needs, proving their worth in national emergencies and international deployments.

In contrast, the SERT PFC 500 reflects a worrying departure from these principles. Its reliance on platform-mounted configurations requiring specialised material handling equipment and vehicles has limited its usability and undermined its intended purpose. This is particularly concerning given that the TFK 250 and even older M37/59 systems remain functional and continue to provide critical support in the field and for domestic disaster relief. Despite the NZDF’s modernisation goals, the PFC 500 lacks the versatility, mobility, and proven reliability that characterised its predecessors.

The NZDF’s choice of the SERT PFC 500 raises questions about its procurement processes and ability to prioritise operational needs over theoretical specifications. While the PFC 500 may offer advanced technology, its lack of practical flexibility and mobility represents a step backwards, especially compared to the legacy systems it replaced. This oversight suggests that the NZDF has “dropped the ball” with this procurement despite decades of valuable lessons in field cooking logistics.

Hopefully, this article will not only highlight these shortcomings but also encourage further research into this often-overlooked yet vital area of military logistics. By investigating historical successes, contemporary challenges, and future requirements, researchers and policymakers alike can ensure that future field cooking systems are innovative, practical, resilient, and aligned with the realities of modern military operations. Only by learning from past successes and failures can the NZDF develop solutions that effectively support its personnel in the field and beyond.


Notes

[1] Memorandum Defence Purchase Division to the Factory Production Controller dated 2 October 1939. “War, Transport Supply – Portable Benzine Cookers,” Archives New Zealand Item No R20947073  (1939-1943).

[2]  Index to New Zealand Army Scaling Documents, vol. Issue No 7 (Trentham: Scales Section, RNZEME Directorate, 15 January, 1973). .

[3] Memorandum from the Office of the Director of Production to the Munitions Controller dated 26 July 1943. “War, Transport Supply – Portable Benzine Cookers.”

[4] “Trailer [‘Wiles’ Army Field Kitchen trailer],” Museum of Transport & Technology, 2024, accessed 1 December, 2024, https://collection.motat.nz/objects/9967/trailer-wiles-army-field-kitchen-trailer.

[5] Memorandum to Cabinet from Minster of Defence Subject: Purchase of Wiles Mobile Steam Cookers for NZ Army Dated 4 July 195. “Army Equipment.- General,” Archives New Zealand Item No R20821850  (1950-1957).

[6] Minute: Secretary of the Cabinet to Minister of Defence Subject: Purchase of Wiles Mobile Steam Cookers for NZ Army Dated 12 July 1951. “Army Equipment.- General.”

[7] “Standardisation -ABCA America/Britain/Canada/Australia] Army Standardisation – Quartermaster – Organisational Equipment – Bakery And Cooking,” Archives New Zealand Item No R6822201  (1974-1986).

[8] “The end of an era: Model series ends after more than 30 years,” Kärcher Futuretech, 2020, accessed 7 April, 2024, https://www.karcher-futuretech.com/en/inside-kaercher-futuretech/newsroom/medien-information/2152-the-end-of-an-era-model-series-ends-after-more-than-30-years.html.

[9] “Field Operational Hygiene and Catering Systems (FOHCS),” Closed Tenders, NZDF, 2019, accessed 1 Decemeber, 2024, https://www.gets.govt.nz/NZDF/ExternalTenderDetails.htm?id=20885024.

[10] “Nowra based GDS wins NZ Field Infrastucture Contract,” Australian Defence Magazine, 2020, accessed 1 Decemeber, 2024, https://www.australiandefence.com.au/defence/land/nowra-based-gds-wins-nz-field-infrastructure-contract.

[11] “New Zealand Defence Force overhauls Field Operational Hygiene and Catering System,” Defence Connect, 2020, accessed 1 December, 2024, https://www.defenceconnect.com.au/joint-capabilities/6009-new-zealand-defence-force-overhauls-field-operational-hygiene-and-catering-system.

[12] “Kitchen Platforms PFC500/100,” SERT Life Support, 2020, accessed 1 Decemeber, 2024, http://www.sert.fr/market-military/catering/trailersorplatforms/75-kitchensplatformspfc5001000.html.


The Evolution of Army Catering in New Zealand (1845-1948)

“If you were an army cook on leave and met some of the troops accompanied by their girlfriends, wives or mothers, which would you rather hear them say: “There’s the chap who turns out the great meals I’ve told you about”; or, “That’s the bloke who murders good food?”

Question placed to trainee cooks by Sergeant-Cook Instructor Bourke (Paddy to all the camp) at Waikato Camp, 1942

Over the last two hundred years, the adage attributed to Napoleon, “An army marches on its stomach,” underscored the paramount importance of sustenance in military operations. In the annals of the New Zealand army, this principle has been diligently upheld, with meticulous attention paid to ensuring soldiers are well-fed, notwithstanding the challenges posed by varying locations and conditions. Establishing the New Zealand Army Service Corps (NZASC) units during the tumultuous periods of the First and Second World Wars is a testament to this commitment. NZASC units were principally charged with baking bread, butchering meat, and procuring and distributing fresh and packaged provisions to frontline units, playing a pivotal role in sustaining the morale and effectiveness of New Zealand forces during these conflicts. Even in more recent conflicts, such as those in Southeast Asia during the 1950s and 60s, New Zealand troops operated on ration scales notably more generous than their British counterparts, a testament to the nation’s dedication to the well-being of its service members. However, despite the recognition of logistical efforts in military history, a notable gap remains in the literature concerning the contributions of New Zealand Army cooks. While Julia Millen’s comprehensive work, Salute to Service: A History of the Royal New Zealand Corps of Transport, acknowledges the significance of Cooks from when they became part of the RNZASC in 1948, scant attention has been paid to the preceding 103 years, from 1865 to 1948.

This article draws upon primary sources and aims to redress this oversight by delving into the hitherto unexplored realm of New Zealand Army catering. By shedding light on the endeavours of these unsung culinary heroes, it seeks to enrich our understanding of the multifaceted efforts required to sustain a fighting force, thereby honouring their indispensable contributions to New Zealand’s military heritage.

Since the first New Zealand Militias were created in 1845, there was always a need to feed the militias when called out for service. Given the nature of Militia service and the fact that they would not serve far from their home location, their messing requirements would have been minimal. Some individuals would likely have been selected from within the ranks to collect any rations provided and prepare meals.

With the advent of the volunteer era in 1858, the New Zealand military became a mixed force of Infantry, Cavalry and artillery who, on occasion, would assemble for annual camps where units within a district would assemble and conduct combined training. While rations were paid through District Headquarters and Defence Stores, messing arrangements would be rudimentary, with men selected from within the ranks preparing the meals from the rations sourced from local vendors. This situation was mirrored in the Permanent Militia, which had staffed coastal defence forts and the military depot at Mount Cook in Wellington since the 1880s.

Clutha Mounted Rifles 1899. Camp Cooks. Hocken Collection.

During New Zealand’s involvement in the war in South Africa, the issue of messing arose as large numbers of mobilising men were stationed in camps. Messing arrangements involved a combination of civilian contractors and regimental cooks. However, an inquiry into soldiers’ comfort, housing, and victualling at the Newtown Park Camp and Volunteer Billets revealed widespread dissatisfaction. Numerous complaints were lodged regarding the quality and quantity of rations provided, the low standard, and, at times, the lack of meals prepared by contractors and regimental cooks.[1] In South Africa, rations, following the British scale, were supplied by the British Army Service Corps (ASC), supplemented by fresh mutton acquired from the enemy and cooked by members of the contingent.[2]

After the conclusion of the South Africa War, interest in the military surged, prompting a reorganisation of the volunteer movement into a more robust and structured system of regiments and battalions. Despite discussions in 1904 regarding establishing a New Zealand Army Service Corps (NZASC), no decision was indicated in the Commandant of the Forces’ annual report on its formation.[3]

Further reorganisation in 1908 saw the ASC matter addressed by the Adjutant General, with discussions continuing into 1909. The Defence Act of 1909 disbanded volunteer forces and established the Territorial Force, supported by conscription. Major General Alexander Godley’s appointment as Commandant of the New Zealand Military Forces in December 1910 provided momentum for reform. In his first year, Godley revitalised the military’s organisational structure, made crucial command and staff appointments, and laid plans to develop the NZASC, which, though officially designated in May 1910, remained only a force on paper.[4]

Despite the Defence Stores Department’s existence since 1869, an ASC nucleus was lacking for forming new units. The proposed NZASC envisioned eight Transport and Supply Columns, divided into Mounted and Mixed Brigade units allocated to each of New Zealand’s four Military Districts and was to be organised by British ASC officer Henry Owen Knox, who arrived in New Zealand in June 1911 and later supported by four ASC officers and Warrant Offices from early 1913. While the NZASC would handle the procurement and distribution of rations, receipt and cooking remained a Regimental responsibility.

Under Godley’s command, the Territorial Army underwent rapid organisation, culminating in the inaugural brigade camps held in 1913. During these camps, the newly established NZASC established its initial depots, receiving supplies previously ordered by the Quartermaster General based on expected strength states and ration scales.

Forty-seven candidates across the Territorial Army were selected in October 1912 to undergo a comprehensive month-long training at Trentham. This pioneering catering course encompassed kitchen work and cooking techniques for field conditions, including practical exercises such as constructing and operating field ovens, fry pans, 8 and 20-gallon boilers and camp kettles.

Of the initial candidates, thirty-eight successfully qualified to supervise cooking for a regiment, with an additional seven attaining certification as company cooks. Unfortunately, two candidates were unable to qualify due to illness. For the 1913 camp, the establishment allowed for a Sergeant Cook per regiment, each granted an additional allowance of 1 Shilling 6 Pence a day (equivalent to 2024 NZD $16.16), while qualified company cooks received 1 Shilling a day (equivalent to 2024 NZD $10.10). Those who served as cooks during the camps were excused from further military training for the rest of the year.[5]

At Trentham, an additional course of instruction was conducted in October 1913, attended by sixty-two territorial soldiers. Thirty-two qualified as competent to supervise cooking for a regiment, making them eligible for appointment as sergeant cooks if vacancies existed within their units. Twenty-seven soldiers qualified as assistant or company cooks; unfortunately, three did not meet the qualifications.

By the end of 1913, this initiative provided the New Zealand Military with a potential pool of 104 trained cooks. However, it was recognised that further efforts were necessary to ensure a sufficient number of cooks would be available to meet the messing needs of the Territorial Force in the event of mobilisation.[6]

The declaration of war and subsequent mobilisation halted any plans for further peacetime training of cooks, as all efforts shifted towards providing trained personnel for the New Zealand Expeditionary Force. The NZASC expanded its role at home and as part of the NZEF, taking on responsibility for bakeries and butcheries. However, despite ensuring the provision of necessary food items to units, cooking remained the responsibility of each unit. Cooks were trained at the Army School of Instruction at Trentham, with further training conducted at NZEF camps in the United Kingdom.In New Zealand, military and civilian cooks fulfilled the necessary messing functions at various mobilisation and Territorial Camps, while unit cooks supported units in the field.

Cooks with first frozen mutton received in the desert during WWI. Hood, D : Photographs relating to World War I and II. Ref: 1/2-067444-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/23212994
Wellington Regiment cooker, and men, within 1000 yards of the front line, Colincamps, France. Royal New Zealand Returned and Services’ Association :New Zealand official negatives, World War 1914-1918. Ref: 1/2-013209-G. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/22604005

During the interbellum period, the Army School of Instruction in Trentham ceased operations in 1921, with few records of formal training for Army cooks until 1938.

In 1937, the Special Reserve Scheme was introduced to provide personnel for the coast defence batteries and three infantry battalions of Fortress troops. Under this scheme, single soldiers underwent three months of continuous training, followed by a three-year commitment to attend training for 10 days annually, with an obligation to report for service within New Zealand in the event of a national emergency. During their three months of training, they were also allowed to attend technical college, free of charge, on a course of their choice. Facilitating the necessary training, the Army School of Instruction (ASI) was re-established at Trentham, supported by District Schools of Instruction (DSI) at Narrow Neck, Trentham, and Burnham.[7]

The first account of cooks participating in this training scheme saw a batch of seventy-two, nine of whom were cooks, enter Trentham in August 1938 for their initial military training, beginning their vocational training in January 1939 with three of the cooks going to Narrow Neck in Auckland and the other six to Fort Dorset.[8] Reviewing the work of the officers and men under his command, the Officer Command the Central Military District, Colonel E Puttick, commented in April 1939 that “there had never been any complaint about the food, and it was clear that the special reservists who had taken cookery training as their vocational course in the Army Training School at Trentham had received excellent instruction”.[9]

While Colonel Puttick may have been satisfied with the catering arrangements in his district, there was dissatisfaction with the quality of rations and cooks in the northern and Southern Districts. In May 1939, reports of sub-standard rations, the performance of civilian cooks at territorial Camps resulting in their packing up and walking out mid camp and the refusals of Territorial soldiers to work on mess fatigue parties led the District Commander, Colonel P.H Bell to call an all-day conference with his Quartermaster and Quartermaster Sergeants to consider the Army’s food problems, including the quality of rations and most importantly how to resolve the fundamental problem that the Army had no cooks of its own, engaging civilians for the period of camps. [10] In the Northern District, a deputation of civilian cooks led by Mr W. R Connolly, a cook with 37 years’ experience of cooking in military camps, went directly to the officer of the Star Newspaper with their grievances following a ten-day camp with A Squadron of the 4th Mounted Regiment. Joining the squadron on 3 May at Cambridge, they deployed to Rotorua, Tauranga, and Paeroa, finishing up at Narrow Neck on 12 May. The cook’s issue was that they were civilians contracted to work in a fixed camp and not on the march, and they were at much reduced rates than they had received before the depression.[11]

Despite these challenges, the outbreak of the Second World War in September 1939 prompted a renewed focus on army catering. On the declaration of war, it was decided that New Zealand would contribute an Expeditionary Force. Initially, a “Special Force” was planned, with one battalion in each of the three military districts. The Special Force was later expanded into the 2nd New Zealand Expeditionary Force (2 NZEF).

Three weeks before the Special Force encamped at Trentham, Acting Prime Minister Mr Peter Fraser and Minister of Defence Mr Frederick Jones visited the site to inspect preparations for the new mobilisation camp. During their visit, the Commandant of the ASI, Major J I Brook, hosted them for lunch. Impressed by the meal, they specifically requested the Regular Force Mess diet sheet and received positive feedback from regular soldiers on the meal quality. The Ministers inquired about the possibility of providing similar meals to the men of the Special Force. In response, Major Brook suggested that providing the same meals to the Special Force could be achieved if cooks were available and ample rations were provided. Following this discussion, permission was granted to establish an Army School of Cookery under the ASI.[12]

By December 1939, under the tutelage of a fully qualified army cookery instructor, the first batch of thirty-two men had completed their training at the Army School of Cookery, with a second batch completing their training on 8 December. Initial training was on the standard equipment found in any camp, typically three ovens able to bake for 120 men. Once qualified in the basics of camp cooking, training on the Portable Cooker No. 1 and other field cookery followed.[13]

As the 2NZEF established itself in Egypt, the significance of quality cooking was duly recognised. Although the Cooks selected for the First Echelon underwent training courses at the Trentham School of Cookery,  they were not qualified cooks under Middle East conditions. They required instruction on breaking down bulk rations and handling food in the field, so arrangements were made to train New Zealand cooks at the Army School of Cookery in Cairo. Additionally, the services of a non-commissioned officer (NCO) from the 7th British Armoured Division was enlisted as an instructor to the 2 NZEF under the supervision of the Divisional Supply Column officer. With the second Echelon diverted to England, General Freyberg consulted the manager of the Lyons chain of restaurants, who was an adviser to the War Office on army catering, with arrangements made with the War Office in London for the secondment of four NCOs to the 2 NZEF to form the nucleus of the 2 NZEF cookery school. These NCOs accompanied the Second Echelon troops from England to Egypt.[14]

A typical New Zealand field cookhouse in the desert during World War II. New Zealand. Department of Internal Affairs. War History Branch :Photographs relating to World War 1914-1918, World War 1939-1945, occupation of Japan, Korean War, and Malayan Emergency. Ref: DA-00798-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/23050225

With this reorganisation and expansion, the NZEF cookery school conducted thorough training and testing for cooks. Starting from February 1941, all cooks were required to be qualified either at the NZEF school or the Middle East school before being eligible for extra-duty pay.[15]

As the war progressed, the Army School of Cookery at Trentham continued to run regular courses. However, the demand for cooks necessitated the DSIs to conduct cookery instruction to train men as they were called up for the NZEF and Home Defence. In addition to male soldiers training as cooks, from 1939, the first females from Auckland Womans Service Corps were employed as cooks in Papakura Camp to supplement the civilian and military cooks. Although on the Army payroll, the initial female cooks were not considered serving soldiers. By June 1941, fifteen female cooks were working across all the Military districts. However, it was not until July 1942 that approval was given for the New Zealand Women’s Army Auxiliary Corps (WAAC)  in New Zealand, formally establishing these female cooks as part of the military establishment.[16]

Cook from the Women’s Army Auxiliary Corps putting meat in an oven to roast, for men at a World War II military camp in New Zealand. New Zealand Free Lance : Photographic prints and negatives. Ref: PAColl-8602-40. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/22895614

By October 1942, three hundred men of the Territorial Force had received training at Ngawahiwaha Camp. The established ratio for cooks to troops was one cook for every 50 men, two for 100, three for 150, and an additional cook for every 100 additional men. Throughout the Army, the standard of cooking, in terms of variety and quality, had seen significant improvement. It was widely acknowledged that a properly trained army cook could secure employment in a civilian hotel or restaurant upon demobilisation.[17]

Sergeant “Paddy” Bourke, veteran army cook, turns the roast. He was in Egypt with the Expeditionary Force of a generation ago; (Evening Post, 13 April 1940). Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/17717327

In May 1944, the use of WACs as cooks had become a normalised and essential function of the war effort, with an article in the Dominion newspaper detailing the work of the 65 WAACs on the messing staff of Trentham Camp and providing details of the training of the latest batch of eighteen female cooks who had just completed a three-week cooking course the Trentham ASI.[18]It’s essential to recognise that New Zealand was not operating in isolation but rather observing developments across the armies of the British Empire as they transitioned from the regimental cook system to a more centralised and professional model. In the United Kingdom, the Cook trade was under the control of the Army Catering Corps (ACC) upon its creation in March 1941, forming as a subsidiary element of the Royal Army Service Corps Supply Branch. Australia followed suit in 1943, establishing the Australian Army Catering Corps. Canada took a similar approach, forming the Royal Canadian Army Service Corps (RCASC) Catering Wing at No. 1 Reinforcement Unit in Britain in August 1942 to train cooks for the Army.

A cook with the 22 New Zealand Battalion, stokes up his fire in the forward areas near Rimini, Italy, 21
September 1944 during World War II. New Zealand. Department of Internal Affairs. War History
Branch

The Canadian Army’s experience was that many cooks had previously been members of their unit. However, experience revealed that they were not necessarily skilled soldiers and often functioned as poor cooks tasked with feeding their comrades. Consequently, starting in 1942, all cooks were transferred to the RCASC, which then assigned them to the various units they were to serve. This change resulted in a rapid improvement in cooking standards.[19]  Although New Zealand had adopted other British logistical organisational changes, such as the formation of the Electrical and Mechanical Engineers, with enthusiasm, it was more reserved about any changes to its cooks, combining cooks into a single corps was not a wartime priority.

In 1944, New Zealand commenced the demobilisation process, which included disbanding the Home Guard and the standing down of elements of the Territorial Force. By the war’s conclusion in 1945, most of the forces stationed at home underwent rapid demobilisation. The 2NZEF was disbanded by 1946, aligning with the downsizing trend seen in many Western militaries. However, despite this size reduction, the Government and the Army hesitated to revert the military to its pre-war dimensions and structure. Instead, they opted to reorganise it into what became known as the Interim Army.

New Zeland Army Order 60/1947 of 1 August 1947 detailed the trade classification and promotion requirements of the Regular Force. This order retained cooks as two specific All Arms trades;

  • Cooks, Hospital. A Group A trade applicable to All Arms, including the New Zealand Army Nursing Service (NZANS)
  • Cooks (other than hospital cook). A Group B trade applicable to All Arms, including the NZWAAC

The Commandant of the ASI set the syllabus for the Cooks, hospital, and Cooks (other than hospital cooks). During his period, there was no steward’s trade.[20]

In 1947, three officers and four NCOs were brought out from Britain to raise the standards of catering in the New Zealand Army. This task included providing training and instruction in cooking and catering and guidance on ration scales and meal planning. With the New Zealand Army perceived as too small for a stand-alone Catering Corps, considering that the NZASC was responsible for the Supply function, Butchers and Bakers, it made sense to emulate the Canadian model and bring all cooks under the umbrella of the RNZASC.

To facilitate this transition, the Army Board approved the formation of a Catering Group as a section of the RNZASC. It issued New Zealand Army Instruction (NZAI) 2049 on 15 February 1948 detailing the Supplies and Transport Catering Group (STCG) formation. Initially, the STCG comprised of;

  • A Staff Officer (Catering) in the Directorate of Supplies and Transport at Army Headquarters.
  • District Catering advisers (NC0s) on the staff of the Districts Assistant Director Supply and Transport (ADST)
  • Instructors on the staff of the Army School of Instruction to operate a Catering Wing.
  • Cooks and kitchenhands on unit peace establishments.

The function of the STCG was to

  • To train and provide unit cooks and kitchen hands.
  • Instruction in and supervision of the management of the Army ration scale.
  • Improvement of standard of food preparation and cooking.
  • Advice on the installation and instruction in the operation of cooking appliances and kitchen equipment.
  • Advice on the layout of mess buildings.[21]

Despite NZAI 2049 bringing all army catering services under the jurisdiction of the RNZASC, the Cooks trade remained dispersed among various units. However, this issue was addressed with the implementation of NZAI 2147 in September 1948.[22]

No 2147. SUPPLIES AND TRANSPORT CATERING GROUP, RNZASC
NZAI 1319 and 2049 are hereby cancelled.

  1. Approval has been given for the formation of a catering Group in RNZASC.
    This group will be known as the Supplies and Transport Catering Group (abbreviated title STCG).
  2. The functions of the STCG are –
    a. To train and provide unit, &c, cooks and messing staffs.
    b. Instruction in and supervision of the management of the Army Ration Scale.
    c. The preparation, cooking and serving of all rations.
    d. Advise on the installation and instruction in the operation of cooking appliances and kitchen equipment.
    e. Advise on the layout of mess buildings.
  3. Initially the STCG will comprise-
    a. A Staff Officer (Catering) on the Directorate of Supplies and Transport at Army HQ.
    b. District catering advisers (NCOs) on the staff of ADs ST District.
    c. Instructors on the staff of ASI to operate a “Catering Wing”.
    d. Messing Staff of all units
  4. In order to implement para 3 above, the following action will be taken:-
    a. From the date of publication of this instruction soldiers classified as “kitchen hands” or “Mess Orderly” will be classified as “probationer cook” or “mess steward” respectively. The terms “kitchen hands” or “mess orderly” will no longer be used.
    NOTES: –
    (i) For star classification purposes “probationer cooks” will form the “learner: class of the group “B” trade of cook and will be treated as Group “D” tradesmen
    (ii) Whenever the term “messing staffs” is used in this instruction, it will included “cooks,” “probationary cooks,” and “mess stewards”
    b. All cooks, probationer cooks, and mess stewards, other than of the NZWAC, will be posted to RNZASC.
    c. All messing staffs. including NZWAC messing staffs, in districts will be carried on the establishments of district ASC Coys under the sub heading of STCG.
    d. OsC Districts will allot messing staffs to units on the recommendations of DA DsST.
    e. Messing staffs, including NZWAC messing staffs, of Army HQ units will be carried on the establishments of the respective units under the sub heading STCG.
  5. STCG messing staff strengths will be assessed according to unit messing strengths as follows:-
    a. Unit messing strengths will be taken as establishment strength less 20 per cent (to allow for personnel Living out).
    b. Cooks. – Cooks will be allocated to units on the following scale:
    i. One cook per unit all ranks (or portion thereof) on unit messing strength up to a total of 650.
    ii. One extra cook p er 90 all ranks (or portion thereof) on unit messing strength in excess of 650.
    iii. One extra cook for each cookhouse in excess of one.
    iv. In addition, one chief cook (WO or NCO) for each unit. The rank of this WO or NCO shall be dependent on the strength of the messing staff serving in the unit concerned,
    in accordance with the scale laid down in para 6 below.
    c. Probationer Cooks:-
    i. Two probationer cooks to each kitchen where cooking is carried out for messing strength of 65 or under.
    ii. Four probationer cooks to each kitchen where cooking is carried out for messing strength in excess of 65
    d. Mess Stewards:
    i. One mess steward for each 25 all ranks (or portion thereof) on unit messing strength.
    ii. In addition, one mess steward for each 6 officers (or portion thereof) on unit messing strength up to a total of 42 officers.
    iii. When the number of officers exceeds 42, one extra mess steward for each 9 officers ( or portion thereof) on unit strength in excess of 42).
    iv. Mess stewards in any mess to include at least one NCO, except when total number of mess stewards is less than 3.
  6. In calculating ranks of messing staff, the following guide will be used: In every 69 messing staff OR’s carried on establishment under STCG there may be 21 NCOs from Corporal upwards on the following scale:
    One Warrant Officer.
    Two Staff Sergeants.
    Six Sergeants.
    Twelve Corporals.
  7. The chief cook in any unit will rank as the senior member of the messing staff, irrespective of the rank of the senior mess steward. He will be responsible for:
    a. The proper functioning of the messing staff.
    b. Close co-operation with the unit messing officer.
    c. Training of probationer cooks.
  8. Amended establishments will be issued shortly.
New Zealand Army Instruction 2147, 15 September 1948

With this new directive, New Zealand Army cooks (NZWAC cooks and stewards, which remained a separate corps but were under technical control of the RNZASC for catering purposes, until 1977 when they joined the RNZASC) were finally consolidated into a single corps, allowing for a standardised training syllabus. Additionally, to enhance the catering function and provide a comprehensive messing service, the Stewards trade was formalised as part of the RNZASC. By the end of 1948, the groundwork had been laid for the RNZASC Catering trade to support the evolving New Zealand army.

In conclusion, the evolution of Army catering in New Zealand from 1845 to 1948 reflects a journey marked by adaptability, innovation, and a commitment to sustaining the morale and effectiveness of New Zealand’s military forces. During this period, New Zealand’s military catering underwent a significant transformation from rudimentary messing arrangements in the early militia days. However, the importance of well-fed troops was consistently recognised, as evidenced by the efforts to improve messing arrangements, the establishment of training programs for cooks, and the integration of civilian and military personnel into the catering function. Despite challenges such as dissatisfaction with rations and the shortage of trained cooks, the New Zealand Army continually sought to enhance its catering capabilities, particularly in response to the demands of wartime mobilisation.
The establishment of the Army School of Cookery, the integration of female cooks into the military establishment, and the adoption of international best practices, such as those observed in the British and Canadian armies, demonstrate New Zealand’s commitment to modernising its catering services and ensuring the provision of quality meals for its troops.
By consolidating army catering services under the RNZASC umbrella and formalising the Cooks and Stewards trades, the New Zealand Army laid the groundwork for a more structured and professional catering function as the country transitioned into the post-war era. By 1948, the stage was set for the RNZASC Catering trade to play a pivotal role in supporting the evolving needs of the New Zealand army, reflecting a legacy of culinary excellence and dedication to service.


Notes

[1] “Newtown Park Camp (Inquiry into Conduct of),” Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1901 Session I, H-19a  (1901).

[2] “New Zealand Contingent (No 1): Extracts from Reports by Major Robin, Commanding New Zealand Contingent, to Officer Commanding Forces,” Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1900 Session I, H-06a  (1900).

[3] J Babington, “Defence Forces of New Zealand (Report on the) by Major General J.M Babington, Commandant of the Forces.,” Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1904 Session I, H-19  (1904).

[4] Based on the British logistics system the NZASC was to be responsible for the Transport and the supply of forage, rations and fuel. The supply and maintenance of all small-arms, ammunition, accoutrements, clothing, and field equipment Stores was to remain a responsibility of the Defence Stores Department which in 1917 became the New Zealand Army Ordnance Corps. Robert McKie, “Unappreciated Duty: The Forgotten Contribution of New Zealand’s Defence Stores Department in Mobilising the New Zealand Expeditionary Force in 1914: A Thesis Presented in Partial Fulfilment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts in History at Massey University, Manawatu, New Zealand” (Massey University, 2022).

[5] “H-19 Report on the Defence Forces of New Zealand for the Period 28 June 1912 to 20 June 1913,” Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives  (1913).

[6] “Military Forces of New Zealand (Report by the Inspector General of Ther Overseas Forces on the),” Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1914 Session I, H-19a  (1914).

[7] “H-19 Military Forces of New Zealand, Annual Report of the Chief of the General Staff,” Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, (1938).

[8] “Vocational Training,” Wairarapa Times-Age, , 17 January 1939.

[9] “Military Camps,” Evening Post, Volume CXXVII, Issue 80, , 5 April 1939.

[10] “Army Cooks,” Auckland Star, Volume LXX, Issue 103, , 4 May 1939.

[11] “Walked out Army Cooks,” Auckland Star, Volume LXX, Issue 114, , 17 May 1939.

[12] “Soldier Cooks,” King Country Chronicle, Volume XXXIII, Issue 4856,, 1 November 1939.

[13] “Diet for Troops,” King Country Chronicle, Volume XXXIII, Issue 4856,, 1 December 1939.

[14] William Graham McClymont, To Greece, vol. 4 (War History Branch, Department of Internal Affairs, 1959), 23.

[15] Thomas Duncan MacGregor Stout, New Zealand Medical Services in Middle East and Italy, vol. 12 (War History Branch, Department of Internal Affairs, 1956), 47.

[16] Iris Latham, The Waac Story (Wellington, New Zealand1986), 1-4.

[17] “Moral Builders NZ Army Cooks,” Bay of Plenty Times, Volume LXXI, Issue 13760,, 1 October 1942.

[18] “Waac’s New Role,” Dominion, Volume 37, Issue 207, , 30 May 1944.

[19] Arnold Warren, Wait for the Waggon: The Story of the Royal Canadian Army Service Corps (McClelland, 1961).

[20] “Special New Zealand Army Order 60/1947 – the Star Classification and Promotion of Other Ranks of Ther Regular Force,”(1947).

[21] “New Zealand Army Instruction 2049 – Supplies and Transport Catering Group, Rnzasc,”(1948).

[22] “New Zealand Army Instruction 2147 – Supplies and Transport Catering Group, Rnzasc,”(1948).